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São Vicente de Fora: a church built to legitimize a King?

Undoubtedly one of the standout churches in Lisbon is the magnificent São Vicente de Fora. Founded in the 12th century by Portugal’s first king – D. Afonso Henriques – in honor of St. Vincent, Lisbon’s patron saint, after conquering the city to the moors in 1147. It is called “de fora” meaning “from outside” because it stood just outside the defensive wall that surrounded Lisbon during medieval times and whose remnants can still be seen from Largo das Portas do Sol. This name meaning “Doors of the Sun” because they faced East and, thus, the sunrise.

St. Anthony, the popular saint of Lisbon – often mistaken as patron saint – was born close by and professed in this church.

Centuries later when Portugal was under Spanish rule (1580-1640) and the old church was in desperate need of restauration, king Filipe (I of Portugal, II of Spain) saw the perfect opportunity to legitimize his rule in Portugal. By rebuilding a church founded by Portugal’s first king he would portray himself as the rightful heir of the dynasty. But he needed to go big to show that he took ruling over Portugal as seriously as ruling Spain and Lisbon as much as Madrid. So he had the plans for the new church designed by Juan de Herrera, the architect responsible for the Escorial Palace in Madrid. The church and adjoining monastery had to be big enough to be seen from every entrance to Lisbon, by sea or land. His goal was achieved.

The enormous front facade of the church features several statues of great beauty, namely the main three: St. Vincent, patron of Lisbon; St. Augustine, patron of the adjoining monastery; and St. Sebastian, introduced to the church by king Filipe during the 16th century reconstruction.

The monastery also has several points of interest: around the cloisters, tile panels with illustrations of the Fables of La Fontaine (18th century French writer) make up the largest in situ tile collection in the world. And it is also here that the Bragança Royal Pantheon can be found. All of Portugal’s kings and queens from D. João IV (1656) to D. Manuel II (1932)’s tombs are laid next to each other. In the center of the room are the tombs of D. Carlos and his son assassinated in 1908 with a statue of a weeping woman next to them.

S. Vicente de Fora is one the many amazing sights we cover on our Lisbon walking tour.



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